Master of Science, The Ohio State University, 2015, Food Science and Technology
Anthocyanins, a class of flavonoids, have been reported as potent antioxidants, acting as anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic compounds and as natural colorants in the food industry. However, investigations into their application in topical products have been limited, thus far. The attractiveness of using anthocyanins in topical applications is two-fold: their use could potentially provide a source of natural color while concurrently acting as health-promoting active ingredients on the skin. The objective of this study was to evaluate the use of anthocyanins as bioactive colorants in lipstick formulations. The hypothesis was that by targeting anthocyanin sources known for their high stability and reported health benefits, that these properties would also be observed in cosmetics. Successful formulations showed similar shades to commercial lipsticks, high color stability to accelerated environmental testing; high free radical scavenging antioxidant ability, UV protection, inhibition of melanin production and dermal penetration determined by FTIR spectroscopy and PLS-regression.
Lipsticks were formulated with a standard base of cosmetic-grade waxes and oils and anthocyanin extracts. Sources of non-acylated cyanidin, elderberry, and acylated cyanidin, such as purple carrot; purple corn; and purple sweet potato, were chosen due to their abundance in nature. Red radish, a source of acylated pelargonidin, was investigated due to its reported high stability and color similarity to current certifiable red colorants. Red grape skin, which contains all six major aglycones, was chosen to better understand the effect of chemical structure on stability. Lipstick formulations were compared to reference samples of commercially available lipsticks and cosmetic colorants. Similar to the reference samples, the anthocyanin-colored lipsticks ranged in color from a vibrant red from red radish to a deep plum from elderberry, highlighting the wide scope of colors obtainable from (open full item for complete abstract)
Committee: M. Monica Giusti (Advisor); Luis Rodriguez-Saona (Committee Member); Chris Simons (Committee Member)
Subjects: Food Science