Department: Textiles and Clothing ![[clear]](close-x.png "Remove this limiter")
45 matches in the database.
These are records: 1 - 30.
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1.
Baldia, Christel M.
Development of a protocol to detect and classify colorants in archaeological textiles and its application to selected prehistoric textiles from Seip Mound in Ohio.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2005, Ohio State University
► The research goals reported in this dissertation were twofold: to develop a…
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▼ The research goals reported in this dissertation were twofold: to develop a protocol using non-destructive or minimally destructive methods to classify the colorants that were used prehistorically as inorganic/organic and pigment/dye, and to apply the protocol to selected textiles from Seip archaeological site, Ohio. The principle guiding the research was to adapt and sequence the analytical methods permitting the use of the smallest possible sample size which could still yield the most information. Through non-destructive forensic photography prior to any other analysis evidence for the chemical differences on the archaeological textiles resulting from the prehistoric colorant applications were revealed, which facilitated selective and purposive micro-sampling that maximized critical data acquisition while minimizing potential destruction of the artifact. Pretests on replicated materials were conducted first to assess feasibility and efficacy of selected analytical methods: photography in different lighting conditions (simulated daylight, infrared and ultraviolet), optical and scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDS), and inductively coupled mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) for elemental analysis. Differences in chemical signatures on painted replicas, otherwise invisible, were confirmed by forensic photography. While working with replicas, limitations of the analytical methods were discovered and addressed to adapt the methods for the use on archaeological materials. A specific sequence of modified methods, constituting the ideal protocol, was then applied to selected prehistoric textiles. Based on the visual examination, eleven textiles from the Hopewellian Seip Mound group were selected and divided into main colored groups: (1) yellow/brown, (2) turquoise/white, and (3) charred. Each of these groups was sampled based on the results of the photography; the turquoise/white group showed patterns otherwise invisible. Optical microscopy illustrated that the yellow/brown textiles were made of dyed rabbit hair with colorant saturated yarns and patterns identical on both sides of the textiles. The two other groups were painted. EDS of the yellow/brown group showed no elemental composition differences between colors, but high organic and copper content as did the turquoise/white group. The charred group showed no significant differences between several colors. However, the red had higher calcium and lower iron concentrations. Two textiles were identified as composite.
Advisors/Committee Members: Jakes, Kathryn A.
Keywords: Forensic Photography; Archaeological Textiles; Archaeometry, Anthropology/Archaeology; Analytical Methods; Textile Science; Phytochemistry; Colorants; Textiles and Clothing; Human Ecology
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2.
Breseman, Betsy Covell.
Weight-related teasing: relationship to body image, self-esteem, and relative body size of adult females.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2004, Ohio State University
► Teasing related to weight may occur more often than many other types…
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▼ Teasing related to weight may occur more often than many other types of teasing during childhood and adolescence. Because people tend to compare themselves with their peers, they may be inclined toward lower body image and self-esteem if they perceive they fail to compare favorably. When overweight or obese individuals compare themselves to their peers, they may discover that a stigma exists against the obese based on subjective cultural ideals of beauty and slenderness. The current study examined weight-related teasing phenomena based on the recollections of adult females with Body Mass Indices from underweight to morbidly obese. A mailed survey assessed respondents’ levels of body image, self-esteem, proneness to hurt feelings, and perceptions of teasing. Open-ended questions provided narratives of teasing incidents related to appearance and weight. The goal of the research was to explore the possibility of weight-related teasing as more pervasive than other types of appearance-related teasing, and that the impact on body image and self-esteem would be more negative among respondents in the overweight, obese, and morbidly obese categories. Results revealed moderate correlations between variables. Analyses of variance indicated differences between underweight and normal Body Mass Index categories and the overweight, obese, and morbidly obese categories. Narratives provided support for the statistical evidence and revealed a greater understanding of the experience of teasing about weight.
Advisors/Committee Members: Rudd, Nancy A.
Subjects: Psychology, Social
Keywords: TEASING; NR; Teased/Cannot; obese; BODY IMAGE; overweight
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4.
Chattaraman, Veena.
Multiple cultural identities in the domain of consumption: influence on apparel product response and brand choices of bicultural consumers.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2006, Ohio State University
► This study proposed a model of ethnic consumer behavior by integrating enduring…
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▼ This study proposed a model of ethnic consumer behavior by integrating enduring and momentary mechanisms of cultural identity salience. The study expected that bicultural consumers who enduringly identify with the ethnic or the mainstream cultures will prefer brands/products congruent with that identity, in spite of the momentary salience of the competing identity. Balanced bicultural consumers identifying with both cultures were expected to prefer brands/products congruent with the momentarily salient identity. The model and the eleven hypotheses were empirically tested among Hispanic consumers in Ohio through a two-session online experiment. The first session grouped consumers into three bicultural identification levels – Hispanic-identified, Balanced Bicultural and Mainstream-identified. In the second session, the three groups were exposed to two sets of either Hispanic or Mainstream cultural primes that momentarily activated or made salient one of two cultural identities. The primes were followed by two types of dependent measures that tapped consumers’ implicit and explicit attitudes toward Hispanic and Mainstream apparel products and brands. The key propositions of this study were supported only in consumers’ explicit relative attitudes (and purchase intent) toward Hispanic and Mainstream apparel brands. In line with the predictions, this study found that bicultural consumers who identify enduringly with one or the other (Hispanic or Mainstream) cultural identity are less responsive to cultural cues in the environment and are less likely to demonstrate significant preference shifts in response to cultural primes. However, the activation of one of the two cultural identities (Hispanic or Mainstream) in the minds of balanced bicultural consumers resulted in significant shifts in their attitudes and purchase intent such that responses were stereotypical to the activated or salient social identity in one counterbalance condition. Hispanic consumers’ implicit attitudes toward culturally relevant apparel colors in response to cultural primes revealed a different picture. The prime influenced color preference across all consumers, irrespective of their bicultural identification level. Specifically, the prime influenced the color preferences such that they shifted toward being stereotypical to the primed cultural identity. Numerous theoretical, methodological and practical implications are discussed based on the findings of this study.
Advisors/Committee Members: Rudd, Nancy A.
Keywords: Social identity; Cultural Identity; Bicultural consumers; Hispanic conusmers; Ethnic consumer behavior; Apparel consumption
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6.
Cho, Jung Rim.
Investigation of dominance using an integrated model of BPM and S-O-R in an online shopping environment.
Degree: MS, Textiles and Clothing, 2009, Ohio State University
► The purpose of the research was to explore the influence of website…
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▼ The purpose of the research was to explore the influence of website characteristics on consumers’ affective states and behavioral responses in an online shopping environment. Based on a combination of the Stimulus-Organism-Response (S-O-R) and the Behavioral Perspective Model (BPM) models, this study presents a framework that provides an understanding of associations among various stimuli (utilitarian and informational reinforcements and setting scope), affective responses (pleasure, arousal, and dominance) and behavioral responses (approach and avoidance). The study employed a 2 x 2 x 2 between subjects’ factorial design: Utilitarian reinforcement (high vs. low) x informational reinforcement (high vs. low) x behavior setting scope (open vs. closed). A single consumer scenario was used across all eight consumer situations. The eight consumer situations represent all possible combinations of utilitarian reinforcement (high vs. low), information reinforcement (high vs. low), and behavior setting scope (open vs. closed). The findings of this study revealed: 1) a difference in the effect of high and low levels of utilitarian reinforcements on pleasure, 2) a difference in the effect of relatively open and closed behavior setting scope on dominance, 3) a difference in approach and avoidance behaviors for high and low levels of utilitarian and informational reinforcements, 4) a difference in approach and avoidance behavior for relatively open and closed behavior setting scopes, and 5) a difference in approach and avoidance behaviors for the affective state of pleasure. The findings of the study provide empirical support 1) for inclusion of the dominance measure in the S-O-R model as a valid affective state in the online context, and 2) for the association among website stimuli, affective responses and behavioral responses as proposed by the integrated model of the BPM and S-O-R in an online shopping context.
Advisors/Committee Members: Stoel, Leslie.
Subjects: Behaviorial sciences; Social psychology
Keywords: dominance; BPM; S-O-R; online shopping; consumer behavior
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7.
Coughlin, Claire Delaney.
Body Image, Self-Esteem, and Consumer Need for Uniqueness as Antecedents to Self-Identification as Fashion Opinion Leader vs. Fashion Opinion Seeker.
Degree: MS, Textiles and Clothing, 2009, Ohio State University
► This study sought to determine whether or not the antecedents to fashion…
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▼ This study sought to determine whether or not the antecedents to fashion opinion leadership differ from those for fashion opinion seeking with regard to body image, self-esteem, and consumer need for uniqueness. The following research questions were examined:1. Do fashion opinion leaders have higher self-esteem than fashion opinion seekers? 2. Do fashion opinion leaders have more positive body images than fashion opinion seekers? 3. Are fashion opinion leaders more confident than fashion opinion seekers? 4. Do fashion opinion leaders engage in more appearance management behaviors than fashion opinion seekers? Furthermore, it was hypothesized that fashion opinion leaders would have a higher need for uniqueness than fashion opinion seekers. Research has examined relationships between self-identification as a fashion opinion leader or fashion opinion seeker and various factors. Body image and self-esteem are two constructs that have not yet been considered. It is possible that fashion opinion leaders will have negative body images since they may be more likely to compare themselves to media images (Muzinicha, Pecotich, & Putrevu, 2003; O’Cass, 2004). Self-esteem may also be an antecedent to fashion opinion leadership or seeking (Cash et al., 2003). Dress may improve one’s feelings about oneself in those with low self-esteem, while for those with high self-esteem, clothing might be used as a visual demonstration of a positive self-concept (Creekmore, 1974; Joung & Miller, 2006). Consumer need for uniqueness has been used in previous studies to examine its effect on fashion opinion leadership and seeking. Based on their strong need for differentiation from others, research has shown that opinion leaders score higher than opinion seekers on measures of general need for uniqueness (Snyder & Fromkin, 1980; Workman & Kidd, 2000; Goldsmith & Clark, 2008). The study utilized female students majoring in Textiles & Clothing at a large, Midwestern university. The study predominantly used quantitative measures, with the exception of several open-ended questions. Each student completed an online or paper version of the survey containing standardized instruments to measure opinion leadership, body image, self-esteem, and need for uniqueness. In addition, subjects answered several open-ended questions about their level of confidence and appearance involvement and choose from a selection of photographs the outfits that most closely depict their own style. The investigators analyzed the data using descriptive statistics. Chi-square statistics were also used in the analysis since the data contains categorical responses between two (or more) independent groups (i.e., positive vs. negative body image, high vs. low self-esteem, etc.). Responses to the open-ended questions were analyzed and placed into thematic categories. Analysis showed high reliability for each scale. In addition, the chi-square analysis showed a significant relationship (p=.003) with a small effect size between fashion opinion leadership/fashion opinion seeking and consumer need for uniqueness. However, the relationships between fashion opinion leadership/fashion opinion seeking and self-esteem and fashion opinion leadership/fashion opinion seeking and body image were insignificant with small effect sizes.
Advisors/Committee Members: Rudd, Nancy.
Subjects: Textile research
Keywords: fashion opinion leadership, body image, self-esteem, consumer need for uniqueness
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8.
DeLong, Kelly Dawn.
The effect of school uniforms on academic performance and behavioral offenses.
Degree: MS, Textiles and Clothing, 1998, Ohio State University
► 'The objective of this study is to determine if academic performance and…
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▼ 'The objective of this study is to determine if academic performance and behavioral offenses are affected by wearing school uniforms in public elementary schools. To determine if the wearing of uniforms affects academic performance and behavioral offenses, permission from two elementary schools, in a large Midwestern city, was obtained to examine students' records. The records examined included fourth grade proficiency tests, and behavioral offenses. Behavioral records consisted of a number of offenses including absenteeism and tardiness. One elementary school required uniforms. The other elementary school did not. The records from years 1993- 1994 through 1996- 1997 for each school were compared. In the study, the presence or absence of uniforms was the independent variable and academic performance, as measured by, proficiency tests, and behavioral offenses were dependent variables. Data were obtained from the city school board data management center. Means and standard deviations were computed. Analysis of variance was used to determine if means differed significantly for scores between the two schools. Chi square test of independence was used to determine if the difference in frequency of behavioral offenses in the two schools was a chance occurrence. A Point Biserial Correlation Coefficient was computed to determine if there was a relationship between wearing uniforms and academic performance. A final ANOVA was computed to determine if the increase in test scores over time, from the school with uniforms, was significant. Throughout the study, significance levels of less than or equal to .05 were used. There was no contact with the students themselves. Results of the analysis of variance revealed that in the year prior to either school adopting uniforms, 1993-1994, there were no significant differences in test scores; neither was there a significant difference in test scores in 1996-1997. However, there was a significant difference in Reading, Mathematics, and Citizenship tests between the school with the uniforms and the school without the uniforms for the school years 1994-1995 and 1995-1996. Results of the Chi Square test of independence, to determine the pattern of behavior between the two schools, revealed that from 1993- 1994 through 1996- 1997, the school without the uniforms had more occurrences of disruptions of class, repeated violations of school rules, and gross insubordination than the school with the uniforms. However, the school with the uniforms had more occurrences of fighting than the school without the uniforms. For three out of the four years, the school without uniforms had a higher frequency of absenteeism and tardiness than the school with uniforms. A Point Biserial Correlation Coefficient was calculated to determine if there was a relationship between the wearing of uniforms and academic performance. Results indicated that there was a significant, but low negative correlation between wearing uniforms and test scores for the Reading, Mathematics and Citizenship tests. From the years 1994- 1 995 through 1 996- 1 997, the mean scores on two of the five tests increased in the school with uniforms, while the mean scores for students in the school without uniforms decreased consistently on all tests from 1994-1995 through 1996-1 997. Because there was an increase in scores for some tests in the school with uniforms, an ANOVA was calculated to determine if the increase in proficiency scores over time was significant. Results of the test indicate that the increase in proficiency scores for the Citizenship and Science tests were significant.
Advisors/Committee Members: O'Neal, Gwendolyn S.
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9.
Falsken, Joycelyn.
Charles Kleibacker, Master of the bias cut; designs, construction and techniques.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2008, Ohio State University
► Charles Kleibacker was a fashion designer in New York City from 1960…
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▼ Charles Kleibacker was a fashion designer in New York City from 1960 to 1986, a time when fashion styles reflected the turmoil that occurred in society throughout those years. However, through it all Charles maintained an individual design aesthetic – soft figure-flattering bias dresses with a classic look that could be worn for years. This earned him a devoted clientele of women who purchased his designer ready-to-wear garments at top stores in New York, or were custom fit in his workshop. Because of his preference for and skill with bias, he became known as the Master of the Bias Cut. Trained in French couturier methods of construction, Kleibacker's garments were all produced with the highest standards in fabric, construction and fit. Bias is known to be the most difficult 'cut' to work with when constructing garments. Charles experimented until he figured out how to solve the challenges, and then trained his workers in the exacting techniques required. Having first a career in journalism, Charles' path to fashion was in "no way normal" and his approach to his business and the industry was not the norm either. Starting small, through much determination and sacrifice, he overcame many obstacles to produce garments engineered for an enduring and graceful artistry. The "bias secrets" that Charles laboriously learned were never closely guarded. An educator at heart, he taught his "secrets" to packed audiences in national tours targeted to the home-sewing market. He also shared his love of historic clothing and engineering garments cut on the bias with fashion design students in many college programs. Kleibacker's path stands as an excellent case study for students. He also tirelessly worked to preserve the techniques that go into couture quality garments. The "secrets" and the experiences of Kleibacker contained in this paper are an informative story for fashion students and lovers of fashion alike. An American original, unique in his approach to design, his ready-to-wear business, sharing his knowledge, and individual design aesthetic, Kleibacker stands out as a pinnacle of the fashion world in his artistry and drive for perfection.
Advisors/Committee Members: Cunninham, Patricia A.
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12.
Glenn, Ann Richards.
Finished good sourcing decisions in the apparel industry after implementation of the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2006, Ohio State University
► January 1, 2005 brought the elimination of quantitative restrictions to trade in…
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▼ January 1, 2005 brought the elimination of quantitative restrictions to trade in the apparel industry. Because apparel products are produced in almost every country around the world, the elimination of trade barriers has important implications for apparel sourcing decisions. The research in this dissertation assesses the impact of quota release using two methodologies: interviews of sourcing personnel, which will give a micro-economic view of imports at the company level, and econometrics, which will be used to give a macro-economic view of impacts on the industry. The combination of these two methodologies will give a holistic look at the reduction of trade barriers and their impact on the apparel sourcing decision. The qualitative data consisted of transcripts from interviews of six sourcing personnel. New themes that emerged from the data included vendor relationships, security of country and natural barriers, such as weather phenomena. External environmental barriers, such as economic, political/legal, and socio-cultural barriers, found in previous research were confirmed by the qualitative data. The quantitative data used for this research was collected from various US and international agencies. OLS regression revealed all variables (difference in GDP, geographical distance, duty, real exchange rate, and quota) to be significant. The regression model does not include the emergent variables, due to the difficulty in quantifying them. Quota and tariffs were significant factors in the sourcing decision, both in the qualitative and quantitative studies. Quota has an interesting phenomenon occur, in that as quota decreases, US demand for apparel imports increases. This can be seen in the data (import quantity) and can be attributed to confounding variables not included in the model.
Advisors/Committee Members: Stoel, Leslie.
Keywords: apparel trade barriers; quota restrictions; Agreement on Textiles and Clothing; Sourcing decisions
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13.
Good, Barbara Ann.
A study of the textile product knowledge of salespersonnel and customer dissatisfaction with selected apparel.
Degree: MS, Textiles and Clothing, 1972, Ohio State University
► The intent of this study was to determine: 1) the textile knowledge…
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▼ The intent of this study was to determine: 1) the textile knowledge possessed by garment salespersonnel; 2) the primary reasons given by consumers for the return of garments; and 3) relationships between textile product knowledge of salespersonnel and ratio of garment returns to sales. The research site selected was a large metropolitan department store and three o f its branch stores. Within the store, twelve women's dress departments were studied since both the prime purchasers and prime consumers of the merchandise were women. Information was needed from two sample groups: consumers who had returned dresses and salespersonnel. Information from a random sample of 185 return records was recorded onto a Returned Merchandise Form developed by the researcher. The sample of salespersonnel included individuals selling dresses in the twelve departments studied. A multiple choice Textile Product Knowledge (T.P.K.) measure was developed, pretested, and administered to these women. An Item Analysis was performed on the T.P.K. measure, reliability at the .470 level was determined by Kuder-Richardson 20 Reliability Estimate. Means, frequency counts, and percentages were employed to evaluate descriptive data while chi square analysis, simple correlations, and ANOV were used to test hypotheses. The .05 level of significance was chosen for acceptance or rejection of relationships or differences. Although findings indicated that garment salespeople need additional textile training, no significant relationship was found between the score achieved by a salesperson on the T.P.K. measure and educational level attained or experience. A significant (p ≤ .01) association was found between the primary reasons given by customers for the return of garments and timespan between purchase and return, and a lesser association (p ≤ .10) between retail price and reason for return. The primary reasons given for the return of dresses were related to style, fit, or aesthetics and most individuals returned merchandise during the week following purchase. Although not significant, results suggested a relationship between salespersons' T.P.K. scores and percentage of garment returns.
Advisors/Committee Members: Dickey, Lois E.
Keywords: SALESPERSONNEL; TEXTILE; TEXTILE PRODUCT; Garment; TEXTILE PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE; dress; PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE
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14.
Hancock, Joseph Henry II.
“These Aren’t the Same Pants Your Grandfather Wore!” The evolution of branding cargo pants in 21st century mass fashion.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2007, Ohio State University
► In this study, fashion and brand ideologies are utilized in explaining how…
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▼ In this study, fashion and brand ideologies are utilized in explaining how cargo pants (the fashion) are no longer the main attraction for the consumer when purchasing the pants. It appears that the consumer may identify with the branding concept used to contextualize cargo pants and to create a selling story; these branding channels sometimes create a hyperreality that entices the consumer to buy the garment thinking s/he is “purchasing” part of the fantasy. Understanding this phenomenon is key to this investigation of cargo pants that have been manipulated and changed through brand culture. The goal of the study is to build upon these fashion studies synthesizing the theoretical foundations of branding by conducting an applied study of a cargo pants in fashion. By examining a single garment type, it was possible to comprehend how all elements of the fashion system are manipulated and systematically changed through branding, and how a garment’s meaning becomes context dependent. This is important for understanding that during a particular fashion season a garment can have multiple meanings, thereby appealing to more consumers who may or may not purchase the garment for the same reasons. By deconstructing changes in fabrications, garment labeling, design features, and contextual placement, the reader will begin to understand that cargo pants are no longer the same army uniform pants worn by their grandfathers. As the American culture continues to become more diverse and multicultural, the goal of retailers becomes not only one of showing how a garment is multi-functional, but also how these companies must market a similar garment to a number of diverse target markets. The re-invention of cargo pants in brand advertising serves as a key to understanding change in American material and popular culture. While fashion advertising is referenced in many studies to depict fashion and its evolution, few fashion scholars discuss how the branding (context) of the garment is the actual vehicle that aids in changing the perception, meaning and “language” of fashion.
Advisors/Committee Members: Cunningham, Patricia A.
Keywords: fashion branding; mass fashion; postmodernism; hyperreality; Abercrombie and Fitch; Ralph Lauren; retail strategy
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15.
Ha, Sejin.
How customer loyalty programs can influence relational marketing outcomes: using customer-retailer identification to build relationships.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2007, Ohio State University
► The primary objective of this dissertation was to develop a model of…
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▼ The primary objective of this dissertation was to develop a model of customer loyalty program success that builds a strong and positive customer-retailer relationship. Building upon social identity theory and Bhattacharya and Sen’s (2003) consumer-company identification model, this study proposed a model that two socio-psychological factors in relation to a customer loyalty program (loyalty program distinctiveness and identity relevance) would influence consumer membership identity and their responses to the loyalty program. A web-based experiment examined the proposed model across two parts in an apparel retailing context. Part 1 demonstrated the significance of distinctiveness and identity relevance regarding a customer loyalty program in enhancing consumer perception of identity salience as a member of the customer loyalty program. However, the proposed moderating role of perceived trustworthiness of customer loyalty programs on the two contextual factors of the customer loyalty program (loyalty program distinctiveness and identity relevance) – consumer perception of identity salience links was not shown in the study. Part 2 explored the effects of consumer perception of identity salience as a member of the loyalty program on their evaluative (attitude towards the focal retailer) and relational (customer-retailer identification and satisfaction) responses. The findings revealed that consumer perception of identity salience as a member of the loyalty program evoked by distinctiveness and identity relevance relating to the loyalty program positively influences consumer attitude toward the retailer, customer-retailer identification, and satisfaction. This study will contribute to the literature on social identity theory, customer-company identification model, the functional theory of attitude, and distinctiveness theory by providing empirical evidence of theoretical explanations within the context of a customer loyalty program in apparel retailing. The findings of this study will also allow retail marketers to design and implement customer loyalty programs that build and cultivate a loyal customer-company relationship.
Advisors/Committee Members: Stoel, Leslie.
Subjects: Business Administration, Marketing
Keywords: customer loyalty programs, customer relationship marketing, retailing
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16.
Ha, Young.
The influence of online visual merchandising on consumer emotions: moderating role of consumer involvement.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2006, Ohio State University
► The purpose of this research was to investigate (1) the effects of…
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▼ The purpose of this research was to investigate (1) the effects of web cues – central cues (product-related stimuli) and peripheral cues (stimuli not directly related to the product) – on emotions, (2) the influence of emotions on consumer response behaviors (satisfaction, purchase intention, and approach behaviors), (3) the effects of consumer involvement (product involvement and situational involvement) as a moderator of the relationship between web cues and emotions, and (4) the mediating effects of emotions on the relationship between web cues and response behaviors. The current research consists of two studies. In a between-subjects experiment with one factor (peripheral cues) having two levels (presence vs. absence), Study 1 found: (1) main effects for peripheral cues on consumer emotions, (2) a stronger effect for peripheral cues on pleasure and arousal for consumers with a low level of clothing product involvement rather than with a high level of clothing product involvement, (3) direct effects of consumer emotions on purchase intention and approach behaviors, and (4) indirect effects of peripheral cues on consumer response behaviors via emotions. Employing a 2 (situational involvement: high vs. low) x 2 (central cues: medium vs. high amount) x 2 (peripheral cues: presence vs. absence) between subjects’ factorial design, Study 2 revealed: (1) direct effects for central cues on pleasure and for peripheral cues on arousal, (2) the influence of pleasure and arousal on consumer response behaviors, (3) the effects for central cues on consumer emotions under high situational involvement (purchasing situation) and effects for peripheral cues on emotions under low situational involvement (browsing situation), and (4) the mediating effects of consumer emotions on the relationship between web cues and consumer response behaviors. The findings of this research provide valuable information for apparel online retailers developing successful apparel online stores using various web cues that may attract both online browsers and purchasers.
Advisors/Committee Members: Lennon, Sharron J.
Subjects: Business Administration, Marketing
Keywords: apparel online shopping; visual merchandising; involvement; emotions
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18.
Huss Pace, Megan Greer.
Preferences for universal design features in apparel retail stores by older female customers.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2006, Ohio State University
► Contrary to popular belief, older adults are interested in participating in shopping…
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▼ Contrary to popular belief, older adults are interested in participating in shopping activities. However, changes in both physical and cognitive abilities may limit or prevent an older individual from doing so if the retail store is not designed to accommodate their needs. Universal Design features can be implemented into a retail store to address these functional issues. Although Universal Design creates an accommodating and aesthetically-pleasing environment to people of all ages (Null, 1989), this research study focused on senior women. The purpose was to learn what Universal Design features are preferred in a brick-and-mortar apparel store, so that retailers can provide a more approachable shopping environment for older adults. The research 1) explored the preference of Universal Design features (value contrast, no pattern, focal point, continuous floor material, open spaces between fixtures on the selling floor, and wide aisles), 2) assessed if groups of Universal Design features influence approach behaviors based on preferences of pairs of photographs, 3) developed an instrument survey that can be used in future research, and 4) created a model integrating approach-avoidance theory (Mehrabian and Russell, 1974), the ecological model of aging/person environment fit theory (Lewin, 1935), and Universal Design features in a retail store. This study consisted of a convenience sample of 127 participants recruited from senior organizations throughout Columbus, Ohio. The instrument consisted of the Universal Design Retail Preference Survey (UDRPS), and a demographic questionnaire. The UDRPS consisted of 24 pairs of black-and-white photographs of Universal Design features and open-ended questions that were asked in order to collect feedback on photograph preferences. A power point presentation was presented simultaneously at the data collection. Seven pilot studies were also conducted. Major results indicated that participants selected Universal Design most of the time (73.6%), and were concerned the most with spatial issues, such as narrow aisles, and lack of open spaces. A K-means cluster analysis classified participants into three groups based on preferences of photographs and demographic characteristics. Implications for retailers are to use 1) 60 inch wide aisles and open floor spaces, and 2) informative focal points with strong value contrast.
Advisors/Committee Members: Zavotka, Susan.
Keywords: Universal Design; Retail; Aisles; Shopping; Older Adults
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19.
Im, Hyunjoo.
The effect of perceptual fluency on online shoppers’ aesthetic evaluation, satisfaction, and behavioral intent.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2007, Ohio State University
► Visual information presentation is extremely important in online shopping context because consumers…
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▼ Visual information presentation is extremely important in online shopping context because consumers depend on visual information presented on the web in making purchase decision. It has been found that poor visual information presentation could make consumers frustrated and confused, which eventually could prevent consumers from shopping online and, Therefore, it is imperative that e-tailers improve the visual information presentation based on the understanding of visual information processing of consumers to benefit both consumers and themselves. A content analysis (Pretest I) examined the current status of online apparel stores in utilizing perceptual fluency in the websites revealed that not many online stores understood and used perceptually fluent information presentation. The current study is an attempt to provide a way to improve visual information presentation on websites to facilitate consumers’ information processing. The perceptual fluency framework guided the development of hypotheses and the model of the study but the current study extended the framework to examine the perceptual fluency effect on satisfaction and behavioral intention. The proposed model and hypotheses were examined in an online apparel store context. The perceptual fluency effect was examined by an online experiment with a mock website. 2,000 undergraduate students participated in the online experiment. The online experiment results showed that visual clarity of a website positively influences aesthetic evaluation of website and products. The effect was stronger in the category page than in the product information page. Furthermore, the effect remained at deeper levels of processing such as satisfaction, purchase intention, and repatronage intention. The perceptual fluency effect diminished at the later stage of cognitive processing. Contradicting the prediction, there was no moderating effect of time pressure and involvement on the relationship between perceptual fluency and aesthetic evaluation. The results provide knowledge about how visual clarity affects aesthetic evaluation of the target object, and also, how visual clarity affects satisfaction and behavioral intention both directly and indirectly through aesthetic evaluation. Practical and theoretical implication was discussed.
Advisors/Committee Members: Stoel, Leslie.
Keywords: Perceptual fluency; Consumer behavior; Aesthetic evaluation; Apparel shopping; Online shopping
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20.
Jennings-Rentenaar, Teena.
Kuna mola blouses: an example of the perpetuation of an art/craft form in a small scale society.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2005, Ohio State University
► This research used a collection of Kuna mola blouses that are housed…
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▼ This research used a collection of Kuna mola blouses that are housed at Denison University in Granville, Ohio; to gain an understanding of what it is within a community that maintains an art and craft form. The Kuna are an indigenous people that live in the San Blas region of Panama. The women sew and wear a mola blouse that includes decorative panels sewn in a technique referred to as “reverse appliqué.” Through documentation and analysis of the design, subject matter, color selection and method of manufacture, these blouses were categorized. The relative importance of the various categories was explored. Although mola-making came about through European contact, the blouses reflect a Kuna aesthetic and the art and craft practices already established within the community. Generally speaking, regardless of how strong the cultural imperative may be, if the artists/crafters are not happy with the results, the art/craft form will not be maintained. Through the documentation and analysis of this collection, it was uncovered that there are different categories of mola blouses that reward the Kuna women for having different skills and abilities. By developing these, they receive the recognition that they require to propel them into more mola blouse making. Also, there was no category that was more prestigious than another; again assuring that everyone is rewarded. There were, however, good panels and even better panels within each category, giving everyone the incentive to continue to strive for better results. It was shown that the different categories are based on different art/craft traditions previously established within the community. The different categories of mola blouses also support the presence of an art/craft interplay. Art stresses innovation, whereas craft stresses virtuosity of technical skill. This study demonstrated the possibility of an art/craft interplay existing, which implies that the community implicitly rewards the stitcher according to the needs of the community in keeping the art/craft vital. Evidence for this interplay was suggested by the presence of different categories that permit different types of emphasis. Research stretching over a longer time period is required to establish how and when the switches in emphasis occur.
Advisors/Committee Members: Cunningham, Patricia.
Keywords: MOLA BLOUSES; KUNA; Mola Panel; sleeves; stitches
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21.
Jung, Jaehee.
Body image as a function of social comparison, self-schema, and self-discrepancy.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 1999, Ohio State University
► Women who place cognitive importance on appearance are expected to have self-schemas…
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▼ Women who place cognitive importance on appearance are expected to have self-schemas in the domain of appearance. This study measured the extent to which women's appearance schemas affect females' mood distress, self-esteem, and self-evaluation of appearance after their exposure to attractive images of others. The impact of social comparison was expected to differ according to whether comparison targets were in-group members (similar others) or out-group members (dissimilar others).This study also measured women's level of mood distress after their exposure to attractive. A total of one hundred twenty-five female college students at The Ohio State University participated in this study. Each subject was asked to participate in the study, which consisted of two experimental sessions during a two-week interval. The initial session was designed to identify subjects' appearance schematicity and actual-ideal self-discrepancies on appearance. The follow-up session was designed to measure subjects' responses regarding their mood, self-esteem, and self- evaluation of appearance after being exposed to stimulus photos taken from fashion magazines. Results of a multivariate analyses of variance revealed that women with high appearance schematicity exhibited more distressed mood than those with low appearance schematicity; however, the level of mood distress did not differ according to whether they were exposed to similar or dissimilar others. Compared to women with low appearance schematicity, women with high appearance schematicity scored lower in self-esteem, evaluated themselves lower in attractiveness, and placed greater importance on their own appearances. Women with high actual-ideal self-discrepancies on appearance evaluated their own appearances lower and placed greater importance on their own appearances than those with low actual-ideal self-discrepancies. This study revealed that the impact of social comparisons with attractive others can be biased by the extent of cognitive importance placed on the dimension of appearance. The results imply that young women placing more cognitive importance on appearance are more vulnerable to negative self-evaluation of their appearances and self in general.
Advisors/Committee Members: Lennon, Sharron J.
Keywords: BODY IMAGE; attractiveness; appearance; appearance schematicity; schematicity; infomation; SCHEMA
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22.
Kim, Hee Yeon.
Effects of Consumer Values and Past Experiences on Consumer Intention to Buy Organic Personal Care Products: An Application of the Theory of Planned Behavior.
Degree: MS, Textiles and Clothing, 2009, Ohio State University
► The primary goal of this research is to investigate U.S. consumer purchase…
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▼ The primary goal of this research is to investigate U.S. consumer purchase behavior of organic personal care products base on the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) by Ajzen (1985). In particular, this research examines 1) the influence of consumer values (i.e., health consciousness, environmental consciousness, and appearance consciousness) on attitude toward buying organic personal care products, 2) the influence of attitude, subjective norm, and perceived behavioral control on purchase intention for organic personal care products, 3) the effect of consumers’ past experiences on their purchase intentions for organic personal care products, and 4) the moderating influence of perceived behavioral control on the relationship between attitude toward buying organic personal care products and purchase intention for the products. For this research, an organic shampoo and body lotion were used as sample products. An online survey was conducted with 207 online panel members, and multiple regression analysis was used to examine the proposed relationships. The findings of this research indicated that only two consumer values, environmental consciousness and appearance consciousness, influenced positive attitude toward buying organic personal care products. In addition, the results revealed that attitude, subjective norm, perceived behavioral control, and past experiences significantly predicted purchase intention for organic personal care products. Furthermore, the relationship between attitude and purchase intention was moderated by perceived behavioral control.
Advisors/Committee Members: Chung, Jae-Eun.
Subjects: Marketing
Keywords: organic personal care; personal care industry; organic consumer; organic consumer behavior
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23.
Kim, Jiyoung.
Effects of Institutional Environment and Social Capital on Rural Consumers' Inshopping Behavior.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2008, Ohio State University
► The objectives of this research project are to examine how rural consumer…
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▼ The objectives of this research project are to examine how rural consumer perceptions of 1) local retailers' institutional and performative actions and 2) social capital within the community affect the institutional environment of the rural market, relying on social capital theory and institutional theory. In addition, this research investigates how community wide effort and consumers' length of residency moderate the relationship between retailer actions (institutional and performative) and consumer support of the retailer. Through exploratory factor analysis of pretest data, measurements were refined and the questionnaire used for the main study was developed. Also, five (i.e., location, value, institutional action, legitimacy and support) instead of four factors (i.e., performative action, institutional action, legitimacy and support) were determined through a series of factor analyses. For the main study, 524 surveys were used for the data analysis. In part one of the study, structural equation modeling in LISREL 8.8 was employed to analyze the relationships among the latent constructs. In part two, the moderating effects of social capital, community level effort and consumer length of residency on the relationships among the latent constructs were examined. In order to test the moderating effect, current research employed multiple group analysis using LISREL 8.8. The findings from part one of the study revealed significant relationships between 1) institutional action and legitimacy, 2) legitimacy and support, and 3) value and support. However, the relationships between 1) institutional action and support, and 2) location and support were not significant. The findings from part two showed the moderating effect of social capital on the relationship between 1) institutional action and legitimacy, 2) legitimacy and support, and 3) value and support. The moderating effect of community level effort was insignificant. Lastly, the moderating effect of consumer length of residency on the relationship between value and support was significant.
Advisors/Committee Members: Stoel, Leslie.
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24.
Kim, Jung-Hwan.
The effect of amount of information and music on consumer shopping behaviors in an online apparel retailing setting.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2006, Ohio State University
► This study consists of two main studies. The purpose of Main Study…
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▼ This study consists of two main studies. The purpose of Main Study 1 consists of three parts: to examine (1) the effect of amount of information on consumers’ satisfaction, perceived risk, and shopping responses, (2) the relationships among satisfaction, perceived risk, and shopping responses, and (3) the relationships among satisfaction, perceived risk, and shopping responses under different amount of information conditions. The purpose of Main Study 2 consists of four parts: to examine (1) the effect of amount of information on perceived risk, attitude towards the site, and purchase intent, (2) the effect of music on consumer emotional states, perceived risk, attitude towards the site, and purchase intent, (3) the mediating role of emotional/cognitive states on the relationship between amount of information/music and purchase intent, and (4) the moderating role of consumer involvement with online shopping on the relationship between amount of information/music and emotional/cognitive states. The experimental design of Main Study 1 was a one factor (amount of information: high vs. low) between-subjects design. A convenience sample of 336 male and female college students participated in this study. The experimental design of Main Study 2 was a 2 (amount of information: high vs. low) x 2 (music: presence vs. absence) x 2 (consumer level of involvement: high vs. low) between-subjects factorial design.1,215 male and female college students were selected by the registrar's office in a way as close to randomly as possible participated in the survey. This study empirically investigated the significant role of amount of information on online apparel websites in relation to consumer shopping behaviors. In addition, this study serves as a beginning in determining the crucial effect of music on online shopping websites and the mediating role of emotional states in explaining music’s influence on shopping responses.
Advisors/Committee Members: Lennon, Sharron J.
Subjects: Business Administration, General
Keywords: Information; Music; Apparel; Retailing
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25.
Kim, Mijeong.
Consumer response to stockouts in online apparel shopping.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2004, Ohio State University
► The primary goal of this research was to investigate how consumers respond…
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▼ The primary goal of this research was to investigate how consumers respond to stockouts from the perspective of discrepancy-evaluation theory of emotion. This research consists of two studies employing a randomized experiment using a mock website simulating online apparel shopping. In a 2 (timing of notification about stockout: before or after) x 2 (item preference: not preferred or preferred) x 2 (frequency of stockout: once or twice) complete between-subjects factorial design, Study 1 examined: (1) the effects of timing, preference, and frequency of stockouts on negative emotion, (2) structural relationships among negative emotion, store image, decision satisfaction, and behavioral intent, and (3) the moderating role of timing, preference, and frequency on the process by which stockouts influence consumer response. Female college students (N=820) participated in the simulated online apparel shopping experiment for Study 1, in which they experienced a different level of stockouts as a function of timing, preference, and frequency of stockouts. In a one factor (managerial response) between-subjects design with four levels (standard, substitute, backorder, or financial response), Study 2 explored the effect of four retail management responses on consumer responses to stockouts. Female college students (N=234) participated in another simulated online shopping experiment for Study 2, in which they received one of the four managerial responses. The findings from Study 1 revealed: (1) main effects for timing, preference, and frequency on negative emotion; (2) three two-way interaction effects for timing, preference, and frequency on negative emotion; (3) the effects of negative emotion on perception of store image, decision satisfaction, and behavioral intent; (4) the effect of negative emotion on behavioral intent mediated by perceptions of store image and decision satisfaction; (5) the varied relationship between store image and behavioral intent as a function of timing, preference, and frequency; and (6) the varied relationship between negative emotion and store image, store image and behavioral intent, and decision satisfaction and behavioral intent as a function of three two-way interactions among timing, preference, and frequency. The findings from Study 2 showed the effect of managerial response on negative emotion, perceptions of store image, and behavioral intent.
Advisors/Committee Members: Lennon, Sharron J.
Keywords: stockouts; online retailing; apparel shopping
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27.
Kwon, Wi-Suk.
A model of reciprocal effects of multi-channel retailers' offline and online brand images: application to multi-channel specialty apparel retailing.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2005, Ohio State University
► This study proposed a model of the reciprocal effects of multi-channel retailers’…
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▼ This study proposed a model of the reciprocal effects of multi-channel retailers’ offline and online brand images based upon the summative model of attitude and a theory of cognitive dissonance. The proposed model and 11 hypotheses were examined in a multi-channel specialty apparel retailing context across four phases of the present study. In Phase 1 (qualitative study), offline and online brand image constructs were explored in a multi-channel specialty apparel retailing context. Eight and nine dimensions for offline and online brand images, respectively, were identified. Possible sources of customer satisfaction/dissatisfaction in the context of multi-channel specialty apparel retailing were also identified from Phase 1. In Phase 2 (scale development), two quantitative scales were developed to measure brand beliefs constituting multi-channel specialty apparel retailers’ offline and online brand images. The offline brand belief scale (OFBBS) consisted of 14 items addressing four dimensions (Self Relevance, Service, Merchandise, and Store Environment), while the online brand belief scale (ONBBS) consisted of 15 items addressing four dimensions (Aesthetic Appeal, Navigation Convenience, Transaction Convenience, and Website Content). Phases 3 and 4 (experiments) empirically tested the proposed model and hypotheses. Results revealed support for intra-channel effects (i.e., online performance → online brand beliefs → online brand attitude → online behavioral intentions; prior offline brand image → offline brand beliefs → offline brand attitude → offline behavioral intentions). Results also provided evidence for cross-channel effects. Specifically, ‘biased assimilation’ of online performance information due to prior offline brand image significantly affected participants’ online brand beliefs. Online performance had an ‘impact’ on offline brand beliefs through the mediation of online brand beliefs. However, this ‘impact’ appeared to be ‘minimized’ by strong prior offline brand image especially when online performance was negative. The cross-channel effects of offline and online brand beliefs on brand attitudes were affected by a negativity bias in that in the presence of negative online performance information, the weights of online beliefs tended to increase. Cross-channel effects of offline brand attitudes on online behavioral intentions were significant while those of online brand attitudes on offline behavioral intentions were negligible.
Advisors/Committee Members: Lennon, Sharron J.
Subjects: Business Administration, Marketing
Keywords: multi-channel retailing; apparel retailers; offline brand image; online brand image; reciprocal effects; halo effects
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28.
Lopez-Gydosh, Dilia J.
Felisa Rincon De Gautier: Puerto Rico's first lady of politics: grande dame style, 1946-1968.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2005, Ohio State University
► In 1946, during a time when women and politics were an unusual…
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▼ In 1946, during a time when women and politics were an unusual combination in Puerto Rico and around the world, Felisa Rincón de Gautier became mayor for San Juan, capital of Puerto Rico. From 1946 through 1968, she transformed the city into one of the greatest and cleanest of Latin America and herself into an iconic figure through her unique manner of dress, giving the effect of a Velazquez painting or looking like a Goya Duchess. This study examines the life of Felisa Rincón de Gautier through her appearance and creation of a grande dame fashion image and its ultimate impact on her success as mayor of San Juan. To explain the origins, purpose and meaning of her fashion image three objectives were posed: 1) recognize sources of influence in the creation of the mayor’s grande dame image, 2) identify the dress elements composing this image, and 3) understand the impact it had on her success as mayor. Felisa Rincón de Gautier’s grande dame image was an intricate combination of her Spanish heritage, experience as a dressmaker, and her philosophy of individuality and femininity. The mayor set herself apart by individualizing her appearance through her “office wear,” accessories, headdress and hairstyles, creating a look that can be defined as a grande dame image. Three themes emerge as reasons for the creation of her distinctive manner of dress: the need or function and convenience in dress, as “a woman, not a man” in politics, and the desire to make an impression when involved in public relations for San Juan and Puerto Rico. The mayor’s grande dame style became a distinctive powerful identifier for a female politician in a male dominated field both in Puerto Rico and the United States. It can be argued that her image and the interest in it, was the introduction to everything that was Felisa Rincón de Gautier, her values, personality, and political leanings. Thus, the former dressmaker of Spanish descent, as mayor of San Juan, dressed to create a better work environment through functional clothing, as well as to promote her city and Puerto Rico around the world.
Advisors/Committee Members: Cunningham, Patricia.
Keywords: Felisa Rincón De Gautier; Puerto Rico; Puerto Rico - Politics; Puerto Rico - Women; Puerto Rico - Fashion; Puerto Rico - Society
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29.
Mangine, Heather Noelle.
Variability in experimental color matching conditions: effects of observers, daylight simulators, and color inconstancy.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2005, Ohio State University
► The research reported in this dissertation encompassed the investigation of the sources…
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▼ The research reported in this dissertation encompassed the investigation of the sources of variation in visual judgment of color differences in textiles and the consequent disparities in color differences calculated from instrumental color measurement. In a paired comparison method, 46 color pairs, including color inconstant samples, were assessed four times by a panel of 59 observers under two daylight simulators, filtered tungsten and F7. Observer variation was assessed with performance factor analysis for observer accuracy and repeatability and by Kappa statistics for observer reliability. Accuracy and repeatability were low compared to previous studies and assessment of inter- and intra-observer reliability showed poor agreement in visual judgments within and between observers. While observers were found to be the most significant source of variation, observer accuracy and repeatability were significantly higher for samples viewed under the filtered tungsten simulator, as compared to F7, leading to the conclusion that choice of simulator affects visual judgments. Visual results were also used to test the effectiveness of four color difference formulae: CIELAB, CMC, CIE94, and CIEDE2000. Using performance factor analysis with confidence intervals formed with a bootstrap method, instead of the simple ranking that has been used in other research, no statistical difference was found in the performance of any color difference formula for either simulator. However, the combination of CIEDE2000 and filtered tungsten consistently showed less variation. The use of constant and inconstant samples did not affect the results; however, the effect may be due to the large color differences of the inconstant samples. Even though prediction of visual judgments by color difference equations was low, the importance of instrumental color difference evaluation is supported by its stability in contrast to the variability demonstrated by observers.
Advisors/Committee Members: Jakes, Kathryn A.
Subjects: Textile Technology
Keywords: color; color theory; color space; color difference equations; CMC; CIELAB; CIE94; CIEDE2000
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30.
McBride, Harriet Wain.
Fraternal Regalia in America, 1865 to 1918: Dressing the Lodges; Clothing the Brotherhood.
Degree: PhD, Textiles and Clothing, 2000, Ohio State University
► Prescribed forms of dress, including theatrical costumes, ritual articles of clothing and…
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▼ Prescribed forms of dress, including theatrical costumes, ritual articles of clothing and militaristic uniforms, were a singular and essential element in the phenomenon of the secret fraternal society movement in the United States in the years 1865 to 1918. The demand for fraternal regalia spawned a distinct and prosperous industry which flourished for eighty years. The story of the fraternal society movement is incomplete without consideration of the garments used by the secret societies, and of the companies that made them.Since their inception, secret fraternal societies have used ritual items of dress imbued with symbolic meaning. In nineteenth century America, as fraternalism embraced twenty percent of the male population, the use of clothing increased and took on new meanings. Rituals increased in complexity and initiation rites assumed a theatrical quality. Fraternal orders added new degrees and side orders modeled on private militias, which required uniforms. Fraternal regalia evolved into three distinct categories reflecting the three aspects of the Great Fraternal Movement - sacred rites, theatrical dramas and public displays of patriotic militarism.This story of fraternal regalia is told from the perspective of The M.C.Lilley & Co. of Columbus, Ohio. This firm manufactured, distributed and sold fraternal regalia from 1865 to 1953. It was the largest of the regalia houses and serves as an example of the industry that fraternalism supported in the years of the Great Fraternal Movement.Regalia manufacturers used specialized marketing techniques and capitalized on political events to create demand for their wares. These companies were instrumental in organizing new lodges and devising new rituals in order to expand markets for their products.The rise of the regalia industry in the United States paralleled that of the societies it served. Firms which identified themselves specifically with the fraternal orders, and which concentrated their product lines on items of dress, prospered as the movement grew. The fortunes of the secret fraternal societies and those of the regalia manufacturers were intertwined, and the interests of one organization informed and served the interests of the other.
Advisors/Committee Members: Cunningham, Patricia A.
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