▼ This thesis investigates the role of Professional Machine Quilters within the contemporary quilt movement. Over the last thirty years, two important attitudinal shifts within the global quiltmaking community have occurred accompanied by technological developments in specialized machine-quilting equipment. These forces have facilitated the reintroduction of professional quilting services by entrepreneurial quilters. Presented here are the results of research investigating Professional Machine Quilters and their customers as well as hobbyist owners of professional-caliber equipment. The participants in this research project, members of the contemporary quilt movement, are productive on creative, commercial, and educational levels within the quilt movement and they play a major role in the support, promotion, and perpetuation of the art of quiltmaking. By purchasing equipment, supplies, and textiles with which they can express their passion in quiltmaking, quiltmakers are contributing to the on-going financial strength of the industry. The current acceptance and appreciation of machine quilting and the collaboration between quiltmakers and the Professional Machine Quilters facilitate the ultimate goal, finished quilts, and thereby also facilitate the satisfaction and pride of the quiltmakers. Consequently, the satisfied quiltmaker begins to make another quilt, contributing again to an ever-growing industry and artform. Advisors/Committee Members: Gunn, Virginia.

▼ In the late-nineteenth century notable interior decorators gradually emerged to help make interior decoration a serious, individualized, and worthwhile discipline. This study traces H. F. Huber & Co., one of New York’s first American interior decorating firms to successfully design, execute, and install complete high-end commercial, hospitality, and residential interiors in close conjunction with the project architect. Despite significant commercial contracts Hugo F. Huber’s career was built on a range of residential work for wealthy clients, often German-American like Huber. Two residences, each with fine archival resources and well-preserved interiors, provided the author with great insight into Huber’s design philosophy, expertise, and work ethic. The Christian Heurich Mansion interiors (1892-1894), Washington, DC, provided an example of Huber’s immense talent during his early-career, and Stan Hywet Manor (1911-1917), Akron, Ohio, provided an example of Huber’s artistic genius during the peak of his career. Advisors/Committee Members: Gunn, Virginia.

▼ This study explores the body cathexis, fit satisfaction, and clothing fit preferences of non-Hispanic Black and non-Hispanic White women who reported wearing a size 14 or greater. The purpose of this study was to ascertain if differences arise between the two groups and if these differences are related to ethnicity or another demographic variable. Consistent with past research, the results acquired through a questionnaire were able to show that Black and White women do experience different feelings toward their bodies and the way in which clothing fits their bodies. Although the Non-Hispanic Black sample was not exempt from body dissatisfaction, the degree of dissatisfaction expressed by the Black sample was less than that reported by the non-Hispanic White sample at all measured body sites. In addition, results showed that plus-sized Black women had greater clothing fit satisfaction at all body site categories than plus-sized White women. Overall, the non-Hispanic Black respondents were more satisfied with their bodies, which led to greater satisfaction with how clothing fits their bodies. Using a previously tested instrument created by Chattaraman and Rudd in 2001 called the “Aesthetics Attribute Preference Scale,” participants were asked to identify their fit preferences for top length, top silhouette, sleeve length, neckline, bottom silhouette, bottom length, and waist placement. Even though Black women were more satisfied with their bodies and the fit of their clothing, there were only two areas that their fit preferences differed significantly from the White respondents. Non-Hispanic Black women preferred a less-fitted bottom silhouette and a slightly higher waistline than the non-Hispanic White participants. Through a series or correlations and a regression model, the impact of all of the demographic variables on the reported body cathexis, fit satisfaction, and fit preference variables was considered. It was found that the body cathexis and fit satisfaction of these women are influenced primarily by their ethnicity, not other demographic variables, such as age, income, or education while fit preferences were influenced by ethnicity, age, and income. The results of this study will allow retailers to provide a better clothing assortment to the non-Hispanic Black or White plus-sized woman. Advisors/Committee Members: Stansbery Buckland, Sandra.

▼ The sexualization of preteen girls’ fashion is a concern in America. Girls are given the opportunity to wear clothing that accentuates and reveals their figures. They are encouraged to dress in styles shown by the media, most especially in popular fashion magazines. For this study, I looked at Teen magazine from 1960 to 2005 and performed a content analysis using advertisements and fashion spreads from the months of April and September. I measured provocative dress, as defined by Kennedy, identified specific characteristics that increased the image’s sexual nature, and ran descriptive statistics on the data pulled. The history of the preteen dress, adolescent development, and the marketplace was explored. Research showed that an intense focus on appearance led to self-objectification and a lack of attention on other activities, including school and play. According to the APA Taskforce on the Sexualization of Girls, preteens became sexualized when their values came from their sex appeal. The increase in provocative preteen apparel could be indicative of more relaxed social attitudes. The results of the study showed a subtle, but progressive increase in provocative fashion in the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries. The majority of the provocative images reported were published after 1985. Fifteen characteristics were analyzed, but only those with the highest numbers were discussed. The number of accentuating garments, exposed breasts, exposed legs, and low waistbands reported often reflected the era’s most popular fashion trends. Results also showed an increase in the number of characteristics reported over the time span of the study. Advisors/Committee Members: Stansbery-Buckland, Sandra.